![]() Pistons move up and down in their cylinders with a tight fit between the piston and cylinder wall. ![]() If you hear a "clack-clack" kind of rattle when you start your car's engine, it could be a sign of piston slap. Should this be the problem, you should replace the entire set of lifters because if one has failed, there are others near failure. But, in older cars, hydraulic lifters are known to collapse, and as they fail, they produce a rattle or "ticking" sound. Today's vehicles have very complicated valve systems, many with variable valve timing, yet they are often relatively trouble-free. The lifters are small parts that open and close the engine valves, activated by oil (hydraulic) pressure. One common problem that will cause a rattle at idle is a failing hydraulic valve lifter. Sadly, this is where the most expensive problems associated with rattles occur. If you have eliminated the car's interior and its underbody area as the source of the rattle, the next logical place is to look under the hood. Not only will your car not run properly, but you will also fail your next smog test. When this occurs, it is time to think about replacing the catalytic converter, because otherwise it will eventually clog and cease functioning. The problem is the core will break down over time, and as it disintegrates, small pieces will drop off and begin to rattle inside the catalytic converter housing. Its core resembles a honeycomb, and in its super-heated environment, it transforms unburned gases into less harmful components. As a vital part of the exhaust emissions system, a catalytic converter removes the most noxious compounds and elements from the vehicle's exhaust gases. Sometimes, an exhaust system clamp gets loose, creating a rattle.Īnother cause of rattles under the car is a failing catalytic converter. In instances like this, the muffler or tailpipe probably needs to be replaced. Rust and corrosion also cause the deterioration of the exhaust system itself, which can cause rattles. They are known to rust, and as they rust and disintegrate, they can start to rattle. The heat shields are typically inexpensive parts that protect nearby areas from the heat emanating from the exhaust system. Again, it's wise to look at the least-expensive problems first, and in this case, the least expensive problem is with a heat shield. ![]() Two common sources of these troubling sounds are the exhaust and emissions systems. If it sounds like the rattle is coming from the interior, but you haven't found any loose interior pieces, it is a good bet that the noise is coming from under the car, perhaps right under the passenger compartment. If you have checked all the interior pieces that could rattle and still haven't discovered the source, the noise is likely coming from elsewhere in the vehicle. Generally speaking, the fixes for these problems are self-evident, and you can perform them with a simple screwdriver or pair of pliers, or with no tools at all. Some vehicles have cargo-carrying systems and cargo covers that could be the source of rattling that you might only hear at idle with the sound system off. So, if you hear rattling when your car is idling, check carefully around the interior, including the trunk or cargo area. ![]() A loose center console cover, broken glove box hinge, or even an item resting in the door panel pocket or cup holder can suddenly start rattling at idle. While today's vehicles are far superior to the cars of a few decades ago in terms of interior rattles and squeaks, those problems still occur. In the context of rattles evident when your engine is idling, the simple, easy-to-fix issues are often inside the car rather than in the engine compartment or the driveline. Rule out the simple fixes before you embark on complicated and expensive repairs. One logical method of problem diagnosis is to progress from easy-to-fix issues to bigger ones. ![]()
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